The Research of Nearshore Wave Simulation Based on SWAN Model and the Combined Refraction-Diffraction Wave Model
LI Xuan
LI Qingjie
ZHOU Liangming
WANG Zhifeng
Abstract：Based on the SWAN model and the combined refraction-diffraction wave model,this paper simulated wave parameters in the Taiwan Strait,the Pingtan island and the adjacent waters.By running SWAN mode,the real-time forecasting wave height,wave period,wave direction and other wave parameters can be obtained with high spatial and temporal resolution.By utilizing those wave parameters,boundary conditions can be obtained to compute wave diffraction in key areas.The statistical test and forecast analysis were performed based on the results of numerical forecast.The verification results indicate that the forecasting results of the model are basically in agreement with the data from the observation stations.This model can provide technical support to ocean wave forecasting and warning of Pingtan island and can be used as a reference for wave emergency management and coastal planning.
Keywords：SWANthe combined refraction-diffraction wave modelpingtan islandmild slope equation
Publication Date：2017-01-01
Pages：12( 33-44 )